We are pleased to report that today, for the first time in this rally, we have little to report in terms of mechanical failures and problems. Well, one of our spot lights is loose and to save time we have taken it off. Also our horn does not work very well but that’s about it.
As we are still in the race, we try to stick to the proper schedule and leave punctually at 7:34. Many who are not, however, leave much earlier. Tim Scott, the sole (masochist) motorcyclist whose contraption has spent more time on trucks than on asphalt, is an example. Despite arriving at 4:30am, had a shower and was back on the road to reach the border asap. Simon and Rupert on their recently fixed Model A did the same as did a number of others.
Our drive to the border is fairly straight and uneventful. Once we arrive, however, we are assaulted by a horde of money changers who scramble to offer us the best rate. We finally negotiate 1600 local dingalings per dollar, about the same as the official rate. Later we find out we could have received at least 2000 which is the black market rate. The other curious thing is that the largest banknote is 1000 dingalings. That means that when we change just two hundred dollars we receive a ton of paper money, 360 banknotes to be exact (later 400 with the better rate). Once we complete the formalities (about 2h as usual) which includes a detailed currency declaration, we move swiftly towards Tashkent. The scenery over the border could not be more different from Kazakhstan. Instead of flat empty plains, many cultivated fields. Many of them are cotton and are being harvested as we drive along.
Driving manners are marginally worse than in Kazakhstan with people u-turning on major highways with only a modest concern for the oncoming vehicles. This seems a very protectionist country. An evident sign of this is the lack of any imported vehicles whether new or used. The last ones are old Ladas, Volgas and Moskwich. All the others are Korean Chevrolets. The most popular one is the Matiz which is produced locally. About one out of every two cars is a Matiz. Petrol also seems to be a problem here. Octane levels are down to 80 and even that is not always easy to find. Uzbekistan must be in economic trouble if they can’t supply it on a regular basis and their currency is so messed up. We tank up with it anyway and move on without any hint of trouble from the engine.
On the other hand what really impresses us is the incredible level of cleanliness all around. There is not one piece of rubbish anywhere. Not on the road, not in front of the homes, nowhere. Even better than Kazakhstan. We reach Tashkent just in time for a late lunch which we have in a superb restaurant across the street from our hotel. We are the only customers there and, at first, are a little e suspicious. We are invited to sit in an indoor patio and, as the menu is only in Uzbeck we let the pretty waitress chose for us. We end up with a delicious tomato salad, some samsa, a puff pastry containing some beef. And lamb and beef kebabs. Superb and light. P
Ready for an afternoon excursion we head for the Chorsu Bazaar. We grab a taxi (also a Matiz) which takes us through the city’s very wide avenues. It turns out to be one of the largest produce markets we have ever seen. A whole section is dedicated to meat which is butchered in front of our eyes on huge wood blocks which must have been in use for decades. Then vegetables, fruit, dried fruit and nuts, spices, bread, shaped like a shallow bowl, and sweets of which we buy different varieties to try with the local green tea. Mattia bought a colourful Uzbek hat (trying to catch up with Hugo and some of the other English crews) and from then on I kept of losing him as with his beard he blended perfectly in the crowd.
Dinner is at Caravan, a restaurant recommended by a newly made acquaintance of Mattia, together with a number of the crews. Great company with some of the crews but the food turns out to be a disappointment compared to the meal earlier in the day. We try Uzbek wine too which we first smell and discover it has an aroma which is a cross between glue and turpentine. We don’t go as far as tasting it…